Christmas in Grytviken...

was observed in the historic church at the whaling station, standing beyond the industrial grunge of a thankfully bygone era.

grytviken-church-xmas-exterior.jpg

There were several seasonally appropriate songs, and I presented a short reading from the 1902-03 journals of Scott and Shackleton during their Christmas experience in Antarctica as they attempted to reach the South Pole. At the conclusion, the church bells were rung, reverberating throughout the rocky fjord. All in all, a lovely day in a richly historic location.

The ship’s photographer contributed this image of me addressing the flock from the pulpit.

The ship’s photographer contributed this image of me addressing the flock from the pulpit.

Walking in Shackleton's footsteps...

from Fortuna Bay to Stromness, the last four miles of his historic trek across South Georgia.

Landing site in Fortuna Bay on Worsley Beach, with Antarctic Fur Seals.

Landing site in Fortuna Bay on Worsley Beach, with Antarctic Fur Seals.

Gaining higher elevation, with commanding view of Fortuna Bay.

Gaining higher elevation, with commanding view of Fortuna Bay.

Small alpine lake at high point of crossing.

Small alpine lake at high point of crossing.

View down valley toward Stromness whaling station, at right edge of bay.

View down valley toward Stromness whaling station, at right edge of bay.

The Shackleton Waterfall.

The Shackleton Waterfall.

Stromness whaling station to which Shackleton returned, unrecognizable after years at sea. From here he organized a return to Elephant Island to rescue the rest of his stranded crew. Epic!

Stromness whaling station to which Shackleton returned, unrecognizable after years at sea. From here he organized a return to Elephant Island to rescue the rest of his stranded crew. Epic!

Topographic map of route from IATTO Field Operations Manual.

Topographic map of route from IATTO Field Operations Manual.

This was an absolutely fabulous hike on a terrific day, on Christmas Eve!

Battle of beachmasters...

at Jason Harbour, South Georgia, as captured by the ship’s photographer. For some reason, the expedition leader tasked me with keeping an eye on this particularly excited fellow.

Antarctic Fur Seals can be very aggressive, particularly male beachmasters, defending their territory for their harems of females during mating season.

Antarctic Fur Seals can be very aggressive, particularly male beachmasters, defending their territory for their harems of females during mating season.

You must stand tall against their charges, here so that guests may pass to return to the landing site.

You must stand tall against their charges, here so that guests may pass to return to the landing site.

On the sixth day...

God created the Salisbury Plain on South Georgia, with an estimated 250,000 King Penguins!

Neither words, nor pictures, can describe the magnificence of this remote place.

Neither words, nor pictures, can describe the magnificence of this remote place.

I derive great joy knowing that this goes on every single day, throughout the year. When I am feeling stressed at home, I visualize this scene.

I derive great joy knowing that this goes on every single day, throughout the year. When I am feeling stressed at home, I visualize this scene.

A brief stop at Grytviken...

in order to bring inspection officers of the South Georgia government aboard the ship.

The restored whaling station at Grytviken.

The restored whaling station at Grytviken.

Captain Roman Obrist on the bridge, maneuvering the ship for this quick stop.

Captain Roman Obrist on the bridge, maneuvering the ship for this quick stop.

British Antarctic Survey station at King Edward Point, staffed year round.

British Antarctic Survey station at King Edward Point, staffed year round.

Prince Olav Harbour...

on South Georgia was first discovered by James Cook in 1775, and shortly thereafter the sealers arrived.

The Brutus, a coal carrier, now a rusty relict.

The Brutus, a coal carrier, now a rusty relict.

The old sealing station, slowly decaying into the landscape.

The old sealing station, slowly decaying into the landscape.

Antarctic Fur Seal.

Antarctic Fur Seal.

Since the cessation of sealing, the population has rebounded.

Since the cessation of sealing, the population has rebounded.

West Cumberland Bay...

on our first approach to South Georgia.

The Allardyce Range, draped in glacial ice and snow, rises to nearly 10,000 ft above sea level.

The Allardyce Range, draped in glacial ice and snow, rises to nearly 10,000 ft above sea level.

Folded turbidite sequences in the Cumberland Bay Formation, with Lyell Glacier in foreground.

Folded turbidite sequences in the Cumberland Bay Formation, with Lyell Glacier in foreground.

My home away from home...

for the next three weeks aboard the brand new expedition ship Hanseatic Inspiration.

The lecture theater with floor-to-ceiling high resolution panels. There’s even a bar, something not found in most university lecture halls!

The lecture theater with floor-to-ceiling high resolution panels. There’s even a bar, something not found in most university lecture halls!

The “Ocean Academy” where lecturers can engage in hands-on activities.

The “Ocean Academy” where lecturers can engage in hands-on activities.

My home office, with my own balcony!

My home office, with my own balcony!

New Island...

in the northwestern part of the Falkland Island group is our first expedition landing.

Upland Goose welcoming our first guests ashore.

Upland Goose welcoming our first guests ashore.

Ruddy-Headed Geese.

Ruddy-Headed Geese.

Red-Breasted Meadowlark.

Red-Breasted Meadowlark.

Black-Browed Albatross sitting on nest.

Black-Browed Albatross sitting on nest.

Blue-Eyed Cormorant.

Blue-Eyed Cormorant.

Kelp Goose having breakfast.

Kelp Goose having breakfast.

Southern Rockhopper Penguin.

Southern Rockhopper Penguin.

Embarking Ushuaia...

and heading to the Falkland Islands.

Leaving the port of Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina.

Leaving the port of Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina.

Southern Giant Petrels commonly follow the ship, playing in the draft.

Southern Giant Petrels commonly follow the ship, playing in the draft.

The SGP bony beak, consisting of nine plates. The upper tube is a saltwater excreting structure.

The SGP bony beak, consisting of nine plates. The upper tube is a saltwater excreting structure.

Sunset at the end of our first day at sea.

Sunset at the end of our first day at sea.

Serious technology on your wrist...

On the aircraft, window seat (of course) taxiing at Spokane International Airport. Location is indicated by blue icon with red line indicating the track.

On the aircraft, window seat (of course) taxiing at Spokane International Airport. Location is indicated by blue icon with red line indicating the track.

Detailed street map of Ushuaia, zoomed out here for a wide view, location indicated by the blue icon in center of display.

Detailed street map of Ushuaia, zoomed out here for a wide view, location indicated by the blue icon in center of display.

The Garmin FENIX 6X Pro is a very serious bit of technology that I am test driving for REI on this expedition. I have preloaded topographic maps for all of the western states at 1:24,000 scale, as well as nationwide coverage at 100,000 scale! In addition, I installed maps for Ushuaia, Argentina and Stanley, Falkland Islands, and it is capable of accessing Birdseye satellite images too. It links to your smartphone and Internet via Bluetooth and Wifi, but is capable of functioning for up to two weeks without connection or charging to other devices. WOW! And, oh yeah, it also tells the time (among many, many other things).

The beautiful images...

posted on this silly blog are brought to you by the camera kit assembled below for my upcoming work in Antarctica, consisting of two camera bodies and three lenses, a wide-angle for macro and landscapes, a mid-range lens, and a zoom telephoto for distant wildlife.

I also carry the Nikon camera in my float coat for shooting videos and when the conditions are rough and wet. All the stuff laid out on the dry bag are batteries and chargers, my GoPro, tripod, lens wipes, headlamp, scale card, etc. Yes, it’s a lot to carry in the field, but the results are more than worth the effort.

White Island volcano erupts...

off the North Island of New Zealand, killing tourists exploring the active volcanic crater. Link to news stories: https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-50708727 and https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-7770695/Volcano-erupts-coast-New-Zealand.html .

UPDATE: When Volcanoes Attack… White Island Edition

On approach with Zegrahm Expeditions in 2015. As exciting as it was to venture into the active edifice, I thought it was crazy risky, but this is the nation that popularized bungee jumping.

On approach with Zegrahm Expeditions in 2015. As exciting as it was to venture into the active edifice, I thought it was crazy risky, but this is the nation that popularized bungee jumping.

Exploring the inner crater and sulfur fumaroles, wearing hard hats and breathing masks.

Exploring the inner crater and sulfur fumaroles, wearing hard hats and breathing masks.

The crater floor consists of hardened lava perforated by steaming fumaroles.

The crater floor consists of hardened lava perforated by steaming fumaroles.

Sulfur works destroyed in previous eruption in 1914 when 10 miners were killed.

Sulfur works destroyed in previous eruption in 1914 when 10 miners were killed.