Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton...

died on this day in 1922 in Grytviken, South Georgia, and is buried in the graveyard just outside the historic and remote whaling station. On the evening before he passed away, after returning to his ship in the harbor - the Quest - he wrote what was to be the final entry in his log book:

Final page from Shackleton’s log book, courtesy of the Scott Polar Institute.

Final page from Shackleton’s log book, courtesy of the Scott Polar Institute.

Using the SkySafari planetarium program, entering the location, time and date of that fateful night in Grytviken, this is the starry sky that Shackleton would have witnessed. Sirius and Canopus are the two brightest stars in the night sky, and he w…

Using the SkySafari planetarium program, entering the location, time and date of that fateful night in Grytviken, this is the starry sky that Shackleton would have witnessed. Sirius and Canopus are the two brightest stars in the night sky, and he was almost certainly writing about one of them.

Sir Ernest Shackleton is one of my great heroes, leading the entire crew of the Endurance to an epic rescue in brutal Antarctic conditions on the ill-fated 1914–1917 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. I will certainly raise a toast to him today, the 99th anniversary of his death. RIP.

Christmas in Grytviken...

was observed in the historic church at the whaling station, standing beyond the industrial grunge of a thankfully bygone era.

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There were several seasonally appropriate songs, and I presented a short reading from the 1902-03 journals of Scott and Shackleton during their Christmas experience in Antarctica as they attempted to reach the South Pole. At the conclusion, the church bells were rung, reverberating throughout the rocky fjord. All in all, a lovely day in a richly historic location.

The ship’s photographer contributed this image of me addressing the flock from the pulpit.

The ship’s photographer contributed this image of me addressing the flock from the pulpit.

Walking in Shackleton's footsteps...

from Fortuna Bay to Stromness, the last four miles of his historic trek across South Georgia.

Landing site in Fortuna Bay on Worsley Beach, with Antarctic Fur Seals.

Landing site in Fortuna Bay on Worsley Beach, with Antarctic Fur Seals.

Gaining higher elevation, with commanding view of Fortuna Bay.

Gaining higher elevation, with commanding view of Fortuna Bay.

Small alpine lake at high point of crossing.

Small alpine lake at high point of crossing.

View down valley toward Stromness whaling station, at right edge of bay.

View down valley toward Stromness whaling station, at right edge of bay.

The Shackleton Waterfall.

The Shackleton Waterfall.

Stromness whaling station to which Shackleton returned, unrecognizable after years at sea. From here he organized a return to Elephant Island to rescue the rest of his stranded crew. Epic!

Stromness whaling station to which Shackleton returned, unrecognizable after years at sea. From here he organized a return to Elephant Island to rescue the rest of his stranded crew. Epic!

Topographic map of route from IATTO Field Operations Manual.

Topographic map of route from IATTO Field Operations Manual.

This was an absolutely fabulous hike on a terrific day, on Christmas Eve!

Battle of beachmasters...

at Jason Harbour, South Georgia, as captured by the ship’s photographer. For some reason, the expedition leader tasked me with keeping an eye on this particularly excited fellow.

Antarctic Fur Seals can be very aggressive, particularly male beachmasters, defending their territory for their harems of females during mating season.

Antarctic Fur Seals can be very aggressive, particularly male beachmasters, defending their territory for their harems of females during mating season.

You must stand tall against their charges, here so that guests may pass to return to the landing site.

You must stand tall against their charges, here so that guests may pass to return to the landing site.

On the sixth day...

God created the Salisbury Plain on South Georgia, with an estimated 250,000 King Penguins!

Neither words, nor pictures, can describe the magnificence of this remote place.

Neither words, nor pictures, can describe the magnificence of this remote place.

I derive great joy knowing that this goes on every single day, throughout the year. When I am feeling stressed at home, I visualize this scene.

I derive great joy knowing that this goes on every single day, throughout the year. When I am feeling stressed at home, I visualize this scene.

A brief stop at Grytviken...

in order to bring inspection officers of the South Georgia government aboard the ship.

The restored whaling station at Grytviken.

The restored whaling station at Grytviken.

Captain Roman Obrist on the bridge, maneuvering the ship for this quick stop.

Captain Roman Obrist on the bridge, maneuvering the ship for this quick stop.

British Antarctic Survey station at King Edward Point, staffed year round.

British Antarctic Survey station at King Edward Point, staffed year round.

Prince Olav Harbour...

on South Georgia was first discovered by James Cook in 1775, and shortly thereafter the sealers arrived.

The Brutus, a coal carrier, now a rusty relict.

The Brutus, a coal carrier, now a rusty relict.

The old sealing station, slowly decaying into the landscape.

The old sealing station, slowly decaying into the landscape.

Antarctic Fur Seal.

Antarctic Fur Seal.

Since the cessation of sealing, the population has rebounded.

Since the cessation of sealing, the population has rebounded.

West Cumberland Bay...

on our first approach to South Georgia.

The Allardyce Range, draped in glacial ice and snow, rises to nearly 10,000 ft above sea level.

The Allardyce Range, draped in glacial ice and snow, rises to nearly 10,000 ft above sea level.

Folded turbidite sequences in the Cumberland Bay Formation, with Lyell Glacier in foreground.

Folded turbidite sequences in the Cumberland Bay Formation, with Lyell Glacier in foreground.

Grytviken whaling station...

as seen from above the restored church, on the return walk from Maiviken, a nearby historic sealing station.

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Inside the museum, a juvenile Wandering Albatross with a nine foot wingspan!

Inside the museum, a juvenile Wandering Albatross with a nine foot wingspan!

Industrial remains of the early 20th century whaling station.

Industrial remains of the early 20th century whaling station.

Expedition team member Patrick Demus and me at the pass between Grytviken and Maiviken. I’m trying to convince the guests that this German-speaking Austrian fellow is my nephew!

Expedition team member Patrick Demus and me at the pass between Grytviken and Maiviken. I’m trying to convince the guests that this German-speaking Austrian fellow is my nephew!

Panoramic view of Stromness...

a historic whaling station to which Sir Ernest Shackleton returned after his epic adventure in 1916. It’s from here that the rescue of the men on Elephant Island was launched.

(Click image to enlarge.)

Beginning the short walk from Stromness to Shackleton’s waterfall, one mile up the valley.

Beginning the short walk from Stromness to Shackleton’s waterfall, one mile up the valley.

Shackleton’s waterfall, the last obstacle on the crossing of South Georgia.

Shackleton’s waterfall, the last obstacle on the crossing of South Georgia.

My reflection in an Antarctic fur seal’s eye.

My reflection in an Antarctic fur seal’s eye.